When to Plant Shallots: Fall vs Spring Sets

Plant shallot sets as soon as the ground can be worked in spring, or in fall after the first frost where winters are mild enough to carry them through. Utah State and Virginia Tech both give the spring rule, and Clemson says shallots grow best from a fall planting. Fall plantings are harvested earlier, in late spring. This page covers the timing decision; the rest is in our shallot growing guide.

Spring planting

Utah State says both bulbs and seeds can be planted in spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Virginia Tech says to plant individual sets 1–2 in. (2.5–5 cm) deep in early spring. Arkansas Extension is more specific for its state: planting during February, as soon as the soil can be tilled, will give the best yields.

The sources do not give a soil temperature for planting, so “as soon as the ground can be worked” is the test. Virginia Tech lists cool conditions, 55–75°F (13–24°C), as the shallot’s preference.

Spring is also the season for growing from seed. Arkansas Extension says shallots grown from seed are responsive to day length and need to be planted early enough in spring to respond to the lengthening days of summer for bulb formation. Utah State says seeds begin to emerge 10–14 days after planting.

Fall planting

Fall has real advantages. Clemson says shallots and garlic both grow best from a fall planting. Utah State says sets can be planted in autumn after the first frost for a late-spring harvest. Virginia Tech says that in warmer climates you plant in fall for winter and spring harvest. Arkansas Extension says that in the southern half of the state the next year’s crop can be planted in late October.

The catch is winter. Utah State says fall-planted sets can overwinter, but very cold winters can reduce yield. If you plant fall bulbs in zones 4 or 5, protect them with a frost cloth covering or apply mulch to minimize winter damage.

Which should you choose?

Sources do not give a zone range for either season, only the zone 4 or 5 protection advice. If you are unsure, plant some sets in fall and keep some back for spring. Utah State says properly stored shallot bulbs can be replanted in the spring, so you can hold some over.

Planting day checklist

• Separate clumps. If shallots are sold in clumps, divide them into individual sets before planting (Virginia Tech).
• Pointed end up. The tip should be just below the soil line or barely poking through (Virginia Tech).
• Depth. 1–2 in. (2.5–5 cm) at Utah State, Virginia Tech and Clemson; 1–1.5 in. (2.5–4 cm) at Arkansas Extension. Virginia Tech warns that planting too deeply can cause bulb rot.
• Spacing. Utah State says 3–6 in. (8–15 cm) in rows 12–18 in. (30–45 cm) apart. Clemson says 6–8 in. (15–20 cm) in the row. Arkansas Extension says 3–4 in. (8–10 cm) with 12–24 in. (30–60 cm) between rows.
• Soil. Rich, loose and well drained, with compost or other organic matter mixed in (Virginia Tech, Utah State).
• Spacing controls the result. High density gives smaller, single bulbs; wide spacing gives clusters (Utah State).

What happens next

Green shallot tops can be harvested to thin the planting when they are 6–8 in. (15–20 cm) tall, about 50–60 days after planting (Utah State). Virginia Tech gives 60–75 days to maturity and notes that maturity date varies by variety. Dry bulbs come once the tops fall over. The shallot harvesting guide covers the cue, curing and storage.

If you also grow garlic, plan both plantings together: garlic follows the same fall logic, with UGA’s window of late September through November in Georgia. See when to plant garlic.